Submersible pump is available at each third dacha or in a country house. Without this technique, the comfort and full use of water resources is almost impossible. Of course, if you prefer a classic well with a winch, there are no questions, but the advantages of using the submersible pump will become apparent with the onset of the first frosts. Unfortunately, like any other technique, pumps are not insured against breakdowns. And since their generation is directly related to staying in water, the risk of faults increases significantly. In this article we will tell about the main problems arising during the operation of submersible pumps, and tell you how to eliminate breakdowns with your own hands.

Major malfunctions

Anyone, even the most expensive and high-quality pump can be aftered sooner or later. Moreover, the reasons for the failure of the order can be somewhat several. Since the submersible pump operates with direct contact with water, it is regularly exposed to a plurality of negative factors. The cost of this technique usually does not allow you to easily replace the broken pump new, so it makes sense to learn to repair it with your own hands or at least warn and fix the main faults.

Causes of malfunctions of various parts and assemblies of submersible pumps:

• water contains more than 50% of suspended particles;
• the device does not concern water and works "dry";
• the pump is included with the working fluid, the level of which exceeds 40%;
• the pump works with regular voltage drops above the allowable level;
• cable connections are fixed poorly;
• the cable of the apparatus is incorrectly fixed in the ledge of the well;
• the underwater cable is incorrectly fixed.

Also, very often malfunctions arise as a result of the improper operation of the hydroaccumulator, due to the lack of a filter or unstable functioning of the pressure relay. The pump can be broken due to defrosting or lacking grounding. In the latter case, the result will be the rapid corrosion of metal elements of the equipment. The magnet fails most often, and in this case the independent repair can not be speech - the device must be delivered to a specialized workshop.

There are mechanical and electric breakdowns. If after startup you hear outside sounds, this indicates mechanical faults. In most cases, you can make this repair of the immersion pump with your own hands. Causes of mechanical breakdowns can be different: too dirty water in the well, lack of oil, etc. As for the electrical component of the device, the breakdown of one of the parts can lead to the complete inoperability of the entire structure. In the case of an overload of the network, a circuit breaker can work, the power phase can break, fail the winding, etc.

Methods of pump repair

Before rebuilding a water immersion pump, it is necessary to estimate its condition and determine if you can cope with your own or still have to seek help from a specialist.

If the device has become bad to work, check the condition of the main nodes:

• the piston must be direct without any damage and deformations;
• the air coming from the fence of water should freely pass on both sides;
• there should be 4-5 mm between the coil magnets and the piston. If this distance is more, the coils will fight, less - the engine will overheat;
• between the housing and the valve, which closes the inlet holes, should be a distance of 7-8 mm so that the water fluctuates fluidly in the absence of pressure.

Useful advice: Before searching for a faulty detail, you need to make sure that the interruptions in the work are not caused by the voltage jumps on the network. To do this, check the voltage and make sure it is equal to 200-240V.

The practice of exploiting and repairing submersible drainage pumps showed that products of different manufacturers have their own distinctive features:

1. Grundfos - In the prevailing majority of models there are built-in valves and special thermal insulation of the motor. Sometimes it is necessary to withdraw it and replace the seals. Only a specialist can cope with this work.
2. Dzhelex - leaks fluid from the electric motor. It can only be replaced with a similar fluid, which is possible only in the service center. It is believed that the alternative can be used transformer oil or glycerin, but if you do not want to spoil the equipment once and for all, it is better not to use such advice.
3. "Kid" - domestic products that are very popular. The price of repairs of submersible pumps of this series is not too high, but in most cases the craftsmen coped themselves. The most frequent problem with "kids" is a strong noise when turning on without pumping water. This means that the central axis on which the membranes with an anchor are broken. This is immediately noticeable when disassembling the device. The axis must be replaced, which is much easier to do than to find it on sale. Below is a video about the repair of the submersible pump "Kid":
   
4. "Aquarius" - these pumps are also "famous" with the ability to overheat, especially if used in shallow wells. If a cheap model broke, it's easier to buy a new one than to repair it, since the repair will cost about 50% of the cost.
5. "Varnet" is a fairly reliable technique, so most breakdowns arise due to improper use. The device can be clogged with or sand, as a result than we have to replace the pumping part.
6. "Rouh" - such pumps are often overheated, despite the fact that the design fully complies with high European standards. It is assumed that "streams" can be non-stop working for 7 hours, but in most cases it leads to overheating, so it is better to give the device to "rest" every 2-3 hours.
   

Noise pump, but water does not pump

If after switching on the pump began to make noise, but the water does not pump or does it very slowly, this indicates a malfunction. It is necessary to study its design by using the instruction attached to the device. It indicates that 2 nuts fixing it (shock absorber) over the shock absorber of the vibro-pump. The device begins to work "dry" if the fastening of the nuts weakens, and the shock absorber slightly shifts.

To fix it, you need to disassemble the pump and tighten the nuts until you stop. Upper recommended to correct. It happens that the pump is not disassembled, because the tie screws on the lid managed to rusted and do not succumb. In this case, they will have to cut with a grinder, and after repair, replace with new screws with a hexagon cap.

Also, submersible vibronic shifts are often broken due to strong mechanical wear, which leads to damage to the valve. Especially dangerous for the sand valve, delving inside. If the device stopped working, first check the integrity of all rubber elements. If it was found that the valve is very worn or at all is torn, it must be replaced. Another "popular" malfunction is the stem break. Unfortunately, if this happens, it is impossible to change or fix the rod, so it is better to regularly monitor its condition.

When connecting the pump knocks out traffic jams

If after switching on the pump to the network, all the plugs knocked out, this suggests that the winding burned down, or the cable itself is defective. Use a special tester to check the performance of the cable. It is best to start with this. If the device shows that everything is fine with the cable, then the reason may be hidden in the burnt winding of the anchor. By the way, if the cable is still faulty, it is not always possible to replace it - for some models, such a function is not provided. One of them is the famous "baby", where the cable is filled with a compound in the case.

If an anchor winding burned down, you can immediately pack the pump and carry it into the service center, since the rewind of the anchor is not the task not from simple. Such work will require special knowledge, mass of time and effort. Moreover, even if you can rewind anchor yourself, this does not mean that you are 100% insured against re-closing. Theoretically, the winding for the voltage in 36V is quite real, but then the coil will have to rewind, clearly observing all the required parameters, including the brand and the thickness of the wire, the number of turns depending on the voltage, etc. Obviously, it's easier to replace the old coil of a new thing than to take for repair.

Pump overheats and vibrates

Repair of centrifugal submersible pumps inevitably, if from time to time the device works "dry", that is, without water. This leads to strong overheating, which, in turn, entails the brave of electronics and mechanics. When the water does not cool the body, it expands, and the compound surrounding the magnet from the surface. The culmination of this scenario becomes a strong vibration of the aggregate.

If the submersible pump is left to work without water for a long time, the compound fill will completely go away from the housing, as a result of which the magnet will clean and stroke the movement of the piston. This is one of the most difficult faults, the elimination of which will require a mass of patience and care. At first it is necessary to disassemble the pump, carefully separating the entire electrician. Then, with light tapping movements on the case, determine the position of the magnet and whether it really was overlooked. Next, remove the pump from the housing and the grinder to ride in it small grooves depth of 2 mm (horizontally and vertically). The same grooves are chaotic on the inside of the case. Apply high-quality waterproof glue or sealant on the body, after which the magnet is closed there. After drying the binder, you can proceed to the assembly of the device.

It should be taken into account that some models ("kid," crossings ") fence holes are on top. It is very convenient because not only eliminates the risk of penetration inside the sludge, dirt and sand from the water, but also improves the cooling of the housing. If there is a built-in thermoster in the submersible pump (model "kid to"), you can not worry about the voltage drops or strong overheating - the device will independently turn off in case of danger.

Too low pressure

If the pump works, but shakes the water too slowly, this means that there is not enough gap in the vibrator. Remove the device and inspect it - the nuts on the rod should be firmly twisted, the valve is safe, there is no breakdown of traction. In this case, it is possible to eliminate the malfunction very easily - it is only necessary to add additional washers to the vibrator. In such a simple way, you not only increase the gap through which water penetrates, but also increase the pressure and improve the pump course.

In the process of repair work, a mandatory configuration and regular equipment testing is required. First, screw one puck, then turn on the pump and check how improved its work. If necessary, add more washer and repeat the test procedure. Such an experienced way you determine the optimal amount of washers.

We listed the most frequent breakdowns and ways to repair submersible pumps that can be carried out without the involvement of specialists. However, it is worth notify that even the most trifle repair requires certain skills and understanding the problem, so if you still decided to do without on our own, carefully examine the instructions and the scheme of the device. I review the pump for the first time, remember the priority of actions to then collect it in the reverse order and not to confuse the part. If you are dealing with inexpensive equipment, you can "strain" on it in repair without extreme feet. As for the costly models of European manufacturers, as a rule, there are a long warranty period for them, therefore it is not necessary to neglect the possibility of free and efficiently repair the technique.

Repair of submersible pumps: Photo